Food in Kenya

Hey all,

I thought today I'd keep it simple, with some talk about food.

Most of my breakfasts at the farm consist of one or two of the usual suspects: sweet potatoes, pound-cake, chapati, bread and butter sandwiches, or occasionally, fried eggs. There is always cold water and chai (tea steeped in boiling milk - oh my god, so good), and sometimes boiling milk or water for "coffee." I use quotation marks because Kenyans, like many of the world's people, believe that Nescafe powder in boiling water constitutes coffee. It does not. Most people would only have bread and chai, so I am lucky to have amount of variation that I do.

For the poorest, lunch consists of not much more than "uji" (very much like porridge... cornmeal, water, maybe a little sugar, and maybe some ground beans) and water. Others have options including stewed sukumuwiki (somewhere between spinach and kale, with a stronger flavor than either), stewed cabbage, soup with a little bit of meat or a little bit of cow stomach, or beans. Any of these things can be taken with chapati, ugali, or for a little more money, rice. Ugali is basically cornmeal and water baked until it forms a giant sticky lump, which you then break into pieces and use to soak up soups and sauces and to give substance to your meal. It is very filling, but isn't particularly tasty on it's own.

Dinner is usually chosen from the same options, but might also include potatoes or carrots, and certainly some form of roasted meat. Meet here is prepared very differently than it is in America. The animal is chopped into pieces and roasted or boiled, and presented as such. No attempt is made to remove the bones, cartilage, or fat. You have to be very careful when you eat it. As such, I try very hard to limit my meat intake, although it is usually found in small amounts in almost everything else.

All day long there are kiosks lining the streets selling water and soda, and often other snacks. Chapati and fruit are almost universally available, as well as a number of other lighter options. Fried dough that tastes much like a flat doughnut is available and called Mandazi. Kebab is a stick of dough mixed with vegetables and baked. And a Somosa is like a Spanish Empanada, basically a triangular meat pie with a lot of spices. Popcorn, roasted corn on the cob, peanuts, and sugar cane round out the other street-side fare.

In addition to these little kiosks, there are also numerous restaurants, ranging from the very small, dark, and cheap cafe where I get most of my meals for less than $0.50 each, to large, clean, multi-story restaurants with bars and dance floors. These are still comparatively inexpensive, but are out of reach for the numerous unemployed or barely-employed locals.

Water quality is also an issue, especially for out of country visitors. All of the water here is polluted a little, but in many cases it is good enough for the locals to drink without too much fear. However, without having grown adjusted to it since childhood, Americans could fall dangerously ill very quickly if they had any significant amount. I can only have water (or milk) that has been boiled, as in coffee, chai, or regular "black" tea (with water instead of milk). Bottled water and soda are also safe, as is the water back at home where the family boils it all before consumption.

Sanitation is also an issue, due to the lack of running water. Many public bathrooms lack running water for the washing of hands. The same is true of most workplaces, including many that involve construction, digging, and even animal work. Restaurants can also be a huge problem. In nicer places a sink is available for everyone to wash their hands before they eat. In many other places, the wait staff will come around with a basin and pitcher of water to allow you to at least rinse off (with the same untreated water that can make travelers sick). Other places have nothing at all. I have also seen plenty of restaurants where silverware is dropped and used anyway, or where the sharing of glasses and food is entirely accepted. The cultural tradition of greeting everyone with handshakes further facilitates the transmission of germs. The Mathews children wouldn't like it here, so much.

Conclusions: The food here is good. Not having a ton of options is bad. Tea in milk is good. Being nervous every time you go to eat is bad. Bottles of hand sanitizer are good.

Yours,
Chris